Friday, April 22, 2011

Raisin Sauce for Ham

Just in time for Easter... the Bixby family food archive brings you:


"Raisin Sauce for Ham  
1 cup raisins
1/2 cup water
5 cloves
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon corn starch
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch pepper
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon vinegar*
1/4  teaspoon worcestershire sauce


Cover raisins with water, add cloves and simmer for 10 minutes then add sugar, cornstarch, salt and pepper, which have been mixed together.  Stir constantly until slightly thick and then add remaining ingredients."






*Judging from similar recipes I've found, this should be white vinegar.   Also other recipes appear to use lemon juice and dry mustard in lieu of worcestershire sauce.

Initials in the upper right hand corner read (I think) "D. I. G."  Marcy (mother-in-love) Graham (nee Bixby) believes that this may origniate from the Gregg family on the Avery side.

And, as an added bonus for today's blog readers, here are some pictures of ham that my husband painted.  No extra charge.

"Ham" by Ben Tripp

"Glazed Ham" by Ben Tripp

Not too shabby for a vegetarian!

Thursday, April 21, 2011

LENTIL STEW

I can't remember where I first found this recipe, but I transcribed it into a small notebook that I carried around with me in1995-96.  Just out of college, this meal was a step up from my dinners consisting of mainly of egg noodles and butter.  I recall preparing this for friends in the little galley kitchen of my first Chicago apartment on Hermitage Avenue.   Living alone for the first time and having people over for dinner made me feel like an official grown-up.  Inexpensive and filling...tastes like independence!



"LENTIL STEW
2 Tbs olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
3 cups veggie broth
1 cup dry lentils, rinsed
8 oz red skinned potatoes cut into 1/2" pieces
1 lemon
6oz torn fresh spinach (8 cups)
1/4 teasp cayenne 
1/4 cup fresh mint
salt and pepper.
feta cheese


Heat olive oil over medium. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add veggie broth and lentils; boil. Reduce heat.  Cover and simmer for 10 mins. Add potatoes - cook uncovered until potatoes and lentils are tender, stirring occasionally about 15 mins.  Add cayenne, spinach, mint and generous squeeze of lemon juice. Cover and simmer until spinach is wilted and tender. Salt and pepper to taste.  (While seasoning, account for the salt content the feta cheese will add). Serve hot with feta cheese crumbled on top."

Nowadays, I'd be tempted to throw in a little curry or cumin with the cayenne.

Source: Corinne Marrinan
Date:  1995-96
Location: Chicago. IL

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

CLAMS A LA DAD

By my dad, Kevin Marrinan, as adapted from a recipe by Jackie Gallea.

Jackie Gallea, and his lovely wife Dorothy, have been friends with my parents for over forty years.  In fact, Dorothy was my mother's best friend in high school.  She married Jack, then a policeman in New York, and the couple would have my parents over frequently at their apartment. The Gallea's were/are both excellent cooks and Jackie's stuffed clams was one of his specialties. (With the surname Gallea, being of Italian descent , it makes sense that the stuffed clams resemble other recipes I've since seen for clams oreganata.) It was at one of those parties, somewhere between 1969-1971, that Jackie shared his recipe with my dad.  Dad adapted this to make it a little more dry than Jackie's original.

My immediate family prepares this every Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day without fail. We usually treat this as an appetizer to graze on all afternoon, usually in lieu of lunch.  We used to have thick clam shells that my father would stuff and bake and reuse.  After years of baking them and scrubbing them out afterwards, they started to crumble, so Dad's "stuffed clams" became "clam balls."  All the flavor with less mess!   And the leftovers are fantastic the next day.  (Mmmmm....cold clam balls for breakfast.... )

I've made these successfully for several cocktail parties.  Once, when feeling fancy, I bought fresh clams from Whole Foods rather then purchasing the canned version.  Big mistake. Fresh clams are a huge pain to clean and trim.  By the time I was finished, the pound worth of clams I had purchased was a half-pound, the other half was in the trash.  And I was kinda grossed out by a the slime.  Just use canned!

The recipe is easily adapted for dietary restrictions.  Someone isn't eating bacon?  Divide part of the mixture before making the balls and leave the bacon out.  The bacon provides a good variation in the texture in addition to the smoke flavor.  We tried substituted Morningstar soy bacon for my vegetarian husband, which worked out well.  You could also use smoked paprika to help the flavor along.  If you don't eat shellfish (like my mom) you can leave out the clams.  It's not quite as yummy or moist, but there is plenty of flavor in the rest of the mixture to make little toasty bread-balls of goodness.

As I may have mentioned in previous posts, there was not a large selection of fresh herbs at our local IGA market, so I grew up making these with dry flakes of oregano, parsley and garlic powder.   Now I prefer to use fresh herbs and garlic.

So, without further ado:

Recipe transcribed by my sister, Amy Marrinan Davidson back around 1999.  Notes in brackets are my suggestions since then.

CLAMS A LA DAD

6 slices of bread grated
(Add seasoned bread crumbs if gooey)
1 large onion chopped
2 stalks of celery
2 Tbs butter/margarine [just butter for me, thanks!]
3 thick slices of swiss cheese (chopped)
4 cans minced [and/or] chopped clams
(drain juice) [reserve at least one can of the juice  to add if the mixture is too dry.]
- salt and pepper
- oregano (dry) [or some fresh, too]
- parsley (dry) [fresh, too, please!]
- paprika
- garlic powder
- parmesan cheese [grated]
- olive oil [2 tablespoons should do it]
- [cooked] bacon (optional)
- jalepenos (optional)
[- fresh garlic (optional)]
[wedges of fresh lemon]

1. Saute onion and celery in olive oil until transparent - remove from frying pan. [cool in large mixing bowl]
2. In the same pan, melt butter then saute bread crumbs.
3. Combine all ingredients and season [I add the clams last, so I can safely keep tasting the bread-vegetable-herb mixture as I go along.  If the texture is too dry, add more clam juice, or maybe a little olive oil.  If the texture is too dry, add more breadcrumbs.]
4. Make into balls [ approximately 1 and a half inch in diameter, placed on oiled cookie sheet] - sprinkle with paprika.
5. Bake at 350  25-30 minutes or until crispy and browned.
6. Serve with fresh lemon.

Source:  Kevin Marrinan via Jackie Gallea
Date: 1969-1971
Location: New York, NY

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Loren and Quincy's Test Kitchen: The Sponge Cake-Off!

 Qunicy & Loren (below)
Loren Tripp reporting from her Test Kitchen in Pasadena:


"Chef Quincy and I made these last night in our Test Kitchen.  We weren’t sure what pans to use, so we used identical 9” dark insulated round cake pans.  Q made Mrs. Batch, I made True.  We brought the eggs and butter up to room temperature.  We used unbleached flour (Not organic, though.) 


We used 3 medium eggs and about a tablespoon of lemon juice for Mrs Batch. The method was an odd process; you get a thick paste of batter, then you thin it with the hot water.  I was afraid Quincy would end up with scrambled egg strands, but that didn’t happen. The batter almost overflowed the top of our pan, perhaps a foreshadowing of things to come! 


True Sponge was a bit more of an elaborate process: beating the egg whites and sifting the bejeebers out of the flour and folding the dry into the wet.  The batter filled the pan about 1/2 full.  
We put both in the oven at 350. We cleaned up the kitchen to the tune of Kool & the Gang. I took True Sponge out of the oven after 40 minutes, as it looked done and slightly browned on top.  Mrs. Batch was struggling under her own mass in there; the edges looked lovely but the center was very liquid.  After 15 more minutes, I removed Mrs. Batch from the oven (Ben, there’s the opener for your next novel...)  and she had collapsed!  The edges looked nice, but the center had fallen; perhaps she is a two pan cake!  


(Photo Right:  Top Cake-Mrs. Batch, Bottom Cake-True Sponge)

The verdict:  First, I don’t have a standard Sponge Cake to compare these to, but I’m guessing it’s a slightly rubbery, holey version of a pound cake that we’re after.  True Sponge is dense with a moist crumble and delicate lemon flavor that is slightly overpowered by sugar. Mrs. Batch’s Sponge Cake fell, but from what we can tell, it’s a more rubbery, holey texture with a strong lemon flavor and not quite as sweet.  is a lovely crunchy crust over the fallen part, which is unintentional, but a nice nibble anyway.  Both are dense and very moist and have a cheery, bright lemon yellow color.  

I think we’ll try Mrs. Batch’s again, with one larger pan and/or 2 8” rounds.  Ada’s True Sponge Cake WINS, if only by default!"





Monday, April 18, 2011

DUELLING SPONGE CAKES!

No sooner do I post Ada Bixby's Sponge Cake recipe than I come across another entitled: TRUE SPONGE CAKE.



The provenance of the handwriting is uncertain at this point, but it's a more recent scrap of paper than Ada's version.

"True Sponge Cake
5 egg whites
5 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
1 cup flour sifted 4 times
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
grated rind 1/2 lemon
--
Beat whites stiff not dry, beat in half the sugar. add lemon rind, juice to yolks and beat until [thick] and lemon color.  Beat in rest of sugar, combining mixture.  Cut and fold w/ flour sifted with salt, pour into unbuttered pan, Cut thru mixture several times to break bubbles.  Bake 1 hour or more in moderately slow oven (325 degrees F) .  If in deep pan (350 degrees F)."


Note: 

Due to eggs being larger today, a modern adaptation of this would probably call for 3-4 eggs, rather than 5.


If a word is in [brackets] then I'm not sure I've transcribed it correctly.  If you have a better guess, let me know!

ADA BIXBY'S SPONGE CAKE

Ada Bixby was my husband's "Grandaunt" on his mother's side.   Many of the recipes I'll be translating will be in her post-Victorian hand.   I never had the pleasure of meeting her, but I'm sure the rest of the Bixby clan will fill in some of the blanks for us here.  There seems to be no lack of stories about dear 'ol Aunt Ada!  Thanks to Loren Tripp for the scan!

“Mrs. Batch

Sponge Cake

Beat 4 eggs together very lightly – both yolks and white – Beat in two (2) cups white granulated sugar – 1 cup of sifted flour a little at a time.
Then add another cup of flour in which add two teaspoonsful of baking powder well mixed in flour. Lastly one cup (small tea cup) of hot water almost boiling.  Do not put it all in at the same time.  Flavor with lemon.  Bake in shallow tin in moderate oven.

Very nice.”

Date: early-mid 20th century
By: Ada Bixby “Maiden Queen” of
Location: Francestown, NH”

NOTES:
Eggs were smaller at the time this recipe was written, so reduce amount of eggs from 4 to 3.

Flour would have probably been unbleached.  Modern flour also has anti-caking ingredient, so for authenticity, use a unbleached organic flour.

A small tea cup of the period holds approximately 6oz of liquid, or ¾ cup.

Baking Powder typically did not used to include cream of tartar, but other dry acids that made them “double acting.”   Most modern commercial baking powders are double acting.

A “moderate oven” would be about 350 degrees by today's standards.

Athough Ada did not specify that she greased the pan, I would fall on the safe side of this and grease the pan lightly with unsalted butter and maybe flour, too.


MODERN TRANSLATION:

"Ada Bixby’s Sponge Cake"

3 large eggs
2 cups white granulated sugar.
2 cups organic, unbleached flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¾ hot water (not boiling)
Fresh lemon juice to taste.

Preheat oven to 350.

Beat eggs lightly in a bowl.  Beat in sugar slowly.  Sift in 1 cup of the flour into the egg and sugar mixture a little at time.  Add the other cup of flour and baking powder.  Mix well.  Slowly add in the ¾ cup of the hot water while mixing.  Add about 1 teaspoon of fresh lemon juice. Spoon batter into (lightly buttered) pan.  Bake in middle of the oven for 45 minutes until golden brown and/or until toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean.  Cool for 30 minutes.

FINAL NOTE:  I have not tested this yet myself.  If you do, and you have suggestions on how the recipe should be adapted.  Let me know!  And send photos!

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Cookbook Suggestion

About 15 years ago, I bought a little cookbook called "The Secret To Tender Pie: America's Grandmothers Share Their Favorite Recpies" by Mindy Marin.  Similar idea to this blog, each spread featured a different grandmother's recipe and a story about them.  Very charming and it featured the best meatloaf I've ever tasted!

I just gave it a search on Amazon, but the book is out of print.  Some used ones are available:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/034540985X?SubscriptionId=0QCHRJVSKG6F3BRGBNG2&tag=pbs_00005-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=034540985X