Saturday, May 21, 2011

Gramma's Snow Pudding with Sunshine Sauce

Today's post is brought to you by the lovely Jennifer Moltoni...

Jennifer Moltoni  (nee Dickson) and her son, Spencer.

"So, the story of this dessert is that anyone and everyone who ever visited my grandmother got to have snow pudding with sunshine sauce at some point during their visit, and somehow, it was a dessert that nobody else seemed to have eaten anywhere else but at Grandma's house.  That said, there is a very good chance that this recipe is from a major cookbook of some sort, but I'm not sure. 

The funny thing was, at her funeral last summer, when each of her children got up to speak about her, this dessert was mentioned every time.  I was too upset to speak at the funeral, but I did compose two haikus for the program about this pudding. 





'Grandma’s snow pudding with sunshine sauce:

White cheerful yellow
We eat lemon clouds and sky.
Perfect end of meal.

Jen’s Snow pudding with sunshine sauce:

Grainy gelatin
Have I chilled it long enough?
No double boiler.'

My grandmother had Alzheimer's for the last 10 years of her life, and during this time, we were all basically snow pudding-less.  A few years ago, when I discovered how much my son liked lemon desserts, I was compelled to ask around the family to see if anyone was still in possession of the recipe. My Aunt Joan dug out my grandmother's old recipe box, found the recipe, transcribed it, and sent it along. I thought that the recipe might have been lost forever, and so, it was pretty exciting to receive those index cards in the mail.  Since I initiated the search, I have continued to circulate the recipe to cousins and relations and several family members have attempted the recipe themselves, with varying degrees of success.

I have never made this recipe successfully, but when it is done well, it's really quite tasty.

So, here are the recipes:




Snow Pudding

1 cup water
1 cop sugar
1 envelope unflavored gelatin (Knox)
Juice of 1.5 lemons

Mix altogether and heat until sugar and gelatin are dissolved.

Set in refrigerator until mixture begins to thicken.

In separate bowl, beat 2 egg whites until they peak.
Beat gelatin mixture until foamy.
Mix both together until it doubles in volume.
Refrigerate until totally jelled.

(Grandma usually made a double batch of this recipe)





Sunshine (Custard) Sauce

1.25 cups milk
2-3 tablespoons of sugar
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla

Mix egg yolks with a little milk.
Mix sugar, add milk and mix thoroughly.
Cook over boiling water (in a double boiler) until mixture coats spoon.
Add vanilla and cool."




Thank you for being today's guest blogger, Jen!





Saturday, May 7, 2011

Sarah Goldfinger's Famous Crispy Party Salmon

This dish is one of my personal all time favorites, partially because it is so damn tasty and partially for it's ability to transcend tragedy and save lives!  So please welcome today's guest blogger, the hostess with the mostess, Miss Sarah Goldfinger!

About the Author

Salmon, Crispy Party Salmon
By Sarah Goldfinger

I don’t mean to be melodramatic, but this recipe has impressed boys, gotten me out of a serious jam, and is rumored to have saved someone’s life (let’s just say, without this salmon, this blog might not even exist...).   

It comes from my mom—I have no idea where she got it, but I’ll ask…  I suspect she told it to me somewhere in the mid to late 90s—late college or the early California years.  It has been, and probably will be, my go-to recipe for years.  The fun thing about it is that it seems very fancy when it’s actually quite simple—which is a great thing for a 20-something wanting to impress.  I’ve made it for book club brunch, I’ve made it for good friends, I’ve made it for celebrities who’ve come to dinner parties (one of them named it Crispy Party Salmon), I’ve made it for 2 and made it for 12.  I’ve even made it with Matzah for Passover! 

Here’s the back story, feel free to skip right to the recipe, if you want --

THE JAM: When I first moved to LA I had no friends.  I was a nanny and everyone I knew was 8 or 48, not 22.  So that first Christmas Vacation I went up to Palo Alto to spend the time with my ex-boyfriend from college, we were still friends.  I flew up thinking I was going to San Francisco.  Remember, I was new to California.  I thought northern California was just some tiny peninsula with all the places I’d ever heard of somehow dotted along the bike path, or something.  Palo Alto may be the birthplace of every computer you’ve ever typed on, but it is the burbs.  The boring burbs.  And my ex didn’t have a license.  He grew up in San Francisco where you pretty much could walk everywhere or take some public transit.  Not so in Palo Alto.  After about six days of padding around his mother’s house getting on each other’s nerves while his mom was in Italy trying to learn Italian, I had had it.  I researched buses.  I looked into cab fares.  I just wanted to Get Out.    Those all proved to be useless or way out of budget.  But, his mom’s Saab was sitting in the driveway.  We were free to use it, but it was a stick shift.  I’d had two stick driving lessons in my life.   On back country roads with a patient teacher and an old Toyota pick up truck whose clutch was so old, getting it stamped down was like doing a step aerobic workout (remember when pilates was only for injured ballerinas and we all did step aerobics?  Ahh, maybe there should be a companion blog to this one for all the exercises we’ve exercised before!)  I digress.  

So, there I was: armed with an iron will, a lack of knowledge, and a series of bad decisions—sitting behind the wheel of his mother’s Saab.  I will tell you two things about nice new Saabs: their clutch is a whole lot more sensitive than a 1975 pick up truck  (I know--I don’t understand why that’s not their commercial tag line either) and they start in reverse.  Reverse is the gear they start in.  I made it about eight feet before the car’s rear end was wrapped around a tree trunk.  Now, I know people say “wrapped around” all the time, but it was.  It was like one of those cool decks where they cut the wood beams just-so around the trunk of an already existing tree.  Nature and progress living in gentle harmony.  This was like that, only the opposite.  The mawing metal of the car had completely twisted and curved around the trunk of the tree.  It was awful.  And it wasn’t even mine to wreck.  To date I think this event might be the worst (non-emotional) thing I’ve done to another person.  She was coming home the next day.  Like a dog’s nose in poop, I had about 30 hours to look at what I’d done.  There was no solution.  This wasn’t a “we better get the carpets clean before Mom comes home and finds that Jack Daniel’s stain.”  I had totaled her car.  I really didn’t know what else to do.  

So, like a prayer, I turned to food.  I made the salmon, always with the same side dishes: roasted red potatoes (very easy: small red potatoes, coat with olive oil, sprinkle Lipton’s onion soup mix, mix with hands, add couple fresh sprigs of rosemary.  Bake at 350 for about 30 minutes), and a salad.  As soon as she got home we told her.  It was dark and she said she didn’t want to look at it.  I think I felt relieved by this, but I may have just been numb.  I fed her.  And she ate.   And it was nice.  She told tales of Italy and made us decaf Illy espresso in her new on-the-stovetop silver coffee boiler, European style.  The next day she looked at the car and gave me a giant hug.  She wasn’t mad.  At all.  She told me it was the salmon. 

Maybe she was just feeling heady from her trip or was glad I wasn’t hurt.  But she never charged my insurance or me a nickel and she never held it against me.  It was a remarkable act of grace that taught me a lot about how to be a good grown up, how to let go, how to be generous and not squeeze to tightly to stuff (even if the stuff is a nice new Saab)…  But she credits the salmon.

CUT TO: A Year Later

THE LIFE RAFT: I’m still making the Salmon whenever I need to.  But, now, instead of working as a nanny, I’m an assistant on a crazy TV show—finally with some peers of my own.  Nicole and I are the front office assistants for the writers and producers and we become fast friends.   There’s an assistant to the lead actor who often flits in and out and we can’t figure her out.   She knows the actor from the theater world and she puts out a theater vibe with her clunky black mary janes and textured tights—normally someone I’d totally be friends with.  But, all I ever see her ingest are cigarettes, lollipops, and Binaca breath spray—probably not someone I’d be friends with (I have a hard time trusting people who don’t like food). 

Now I know it makes Nicole and I sound like severe mean girls when I say we had a bet going about whether this assistant, let’s call her Corinne, was an alcoholic or a bulimic, but does it help if I tell you that as we watched her get skinnier and skinnier, I finally reached out?  My opening line was clunky, and will clearly reveal what side of the bet I’d placed...  Asking her to come to dinner came out as, “If I fed you, would you eat?”  She nodded quietly.  Still mysterious, but open.  We made a plan. I’d be house sitting for one of the families I used to nanny for and wanted to have some people over, you know, a casual (intervention) dinner party.  Nicole, Corinne, and my friend Nanci, who didn’t work on the show would all be there.  

The house was amazing with this great cook’s kitchen that made me feel like I was playing house in the best house ever.  I made the salmon, and the roasted potatoes, and a salad.  It’s all I knew and it had good history.  We poured some wine and we talked.  I fed her.  And she ate.  And ate.  And eventually it was if we’d uncorked a fizzy bottle of Champagne.  Corinne gushed forth about the stressful job and her wacky living arrangements and what was promised in Chicago versus the reality of what was true in LA and some health problems she was having and that she didn’t know which end was up and didn’t know how to behave on the show.  She ate and she talked and she cried.  And we realized she wasn’t an alcoholic or a bulimic.  She was lonely.  And scared.  And we’d all been there.  We’d created a safe space—we four women and a salmon.  Within the year, Corinne and I were roommates and to this day I consider her one of my closest friends and I can’t remember the last time I saw her use Binaca!  And though I think it was friendship and bravery on all fronts, Corinne credits the salmon with saving her life.  It is, apparently, the life raft of main courses.  Enjoy!

INGREDIENTS:
2 pounds of Salmon (serves 4-6)
¼ cup Honey
¼ cup Dijon Mustard
1 Bunch of Parsley (regular works better than Italian)
2 Slices of Pumpernickel (Dark Rye) Bread
½ cup of Pecans (my mom originally gave this recipe with walnuts , which are fine too, but I prefer the pecans)

DIRECTIONS:
Mix honey and mustard in a cup with a whisk—should be smooth.
Toast the bread in the toaster. 
While that’s going: wash, dry and chop leaves off stems of parsley.  Coarsely chop parsley leaves, put in a medium sized bowl.
Coarsely chop pecans, add to parsley.
Take slices of toasted bread and cut into small cubes, add to nuts and parsley.
Mix in bowl with hands.
Put tin foil on a cookie sheet, curl up the edges.  Place fish on foil.
Drizzle 2/3 of the honey-mustard mixture on top of fish.
Sprinkle bread, parsley, and nut mixture on fish, making a nice thick crust.
Drizzle remaining sauce on top of the crust.
The sauce soaks into the bread and caramelizes the nuts. 
Bake at 350 for 20 minutes then check done ness. 

Eat and enjoy!  Save lives if you have the chance!


Thank you, Sarah...for everything!

Friday, May 6, 2011

The Olive Experiment


Today is a departure from the usual subject of tried and true recipes.   There is always some kind of experiment going on around our house -- horticultural, culinary or otherwise. (Please refer to my vegetarian husband's HAM paintings on the Raisin Sauce post).

There is this big Russian Olive tree here on our property in Altadena that is in desperate need of a pruning.  This spring, thousands of olives appeared, weighing down the limbs and causing a consistent rain of fruit down on my new garden beds.  While some netting could have solved the latter problem, it seemed like an opportunity for a more creative solution.  

We are rich in olives, therefore we must maximize our currency.

Basic brine is simply salt and water.  There are some fancy, advanced recipes for flavored olive brines out there.  I was tempted by one, supposedly from a gypsy woman, who concocts a mixture of lemons, oregano, cumin seeds, garlic cloves and vinegar, in addition to the salt water.  I think the process also involved cracking the skins with a blessed wooden mallet and performing an interpretive dance around the marinating fruit.  Maybe next time.

For now, I accept that I’m an amateur olive briner.  Therefore, I’m following the most straightforward recipe I could find.

Ingredients:
Olives
Water
Salt
(The water to salt ratio is approximately ¼ cup salt to 1 quart of water.)

Prepping the olives:
This was the most labor-intensive part.   I sorted through thousands of them looking for those that were firm, unbroken, unblemished and had a sufficient level of red/black hue.  Too much green would mean using another brining process altogether.

Then the olives needed a bath to remove dirt and debris.  After cleaning, I laid them out on a sheet in the shade and started the second round of olive selection.  Using a paring knife, the flesh of each olive needed to be pierced  before brining.

When my stockpot was full, I added the cold water and the salt.  The olives need to be submerged in the water, not floating on top,.  A glass pot lid inverted did the trick.  Then the pot went back to the guest bath and was covered.  They need to be brined in a dark place with a temperature below 90 degrees.

Each day, I need to shake the pot.

Each week, brine should be replaced with fresh salt water.  This goes on for about three weeks, then we can start tasting the olives.  It could take up to 6 weeks until they taste good.

(I am also prepared for the distinct possibility that these olives won’t taste good at all.)

If they do taste good, you place small batches in a colander and dip them in boiling water.  Then refresh them in fresh cold water, spread out on paper towels and dry for several hours.  If we get to that point successfully, then on to the canning process!

The olive tree.

Heavy fruiting branches are sawed down by Ben, making a big (and unavoidable) mess.
Sorting through the debris.

Olives get a bath in a mild fruit/veg cleaning soap.

Clean olives spread out to be picked through.

An hour later...

Two hours later...


Olives floating in salt brine.

Using an upside-down pot lid to weigh down the olives.

If this works, everyone gets a mason jar full of olives this holiday season!

Friday, April 29, 2011

LADY BALTIMORE CAKE



Another from the Bixby/Avery vaults.

The Lady Baltimore Cake supposedly originated at the Lady Baltimore Tea Room in Charleston, Virginia.  The  first documented mention of the cake was in 1906, when the recipe was printed in the the Post Standard of Syracuse, NY.  There was also a novel titled Lady Baltimore, written by Owen Wister and released in 1906. [Note that the scanned index card (below) makes mention "Owen Wister's Book (?) - Original].  From that book, here is a  passage about a character tasting the cake for the first time:


"I returned to the table and she brought me the cake, and I had my first felicitous meeting with Lady Baltimore. Oh, my goodness! Did you ever taste it? It's all soft, and it's in layers, and it has nuts--but I can't write any more about it; my mouth waters too much.
Delighted surprise caused me once more to speak aloud, and with my mouth full. "But, dear me, this Is delicious!"


Perhaps this was an early example of cross-promotional marketing?  The novel being released at the same time the cake becomes popular.  If I dig a little deeper, maybe I'll find a Lady Baltimore branded lunch box or action figure.




"LADY BALTIMORE CAKE
Owen Wister's Book - Original
1/2 lb. butter, 1 lb. sugar, 1 lb. flour, 8 eggs (whites only) 4 teaspoon baking powder, 1/2 pt. milk. teaspoon almond flavoring.
(Treatment)
Cream butter and sugar, add milk slowly beat eggs, add flour to butter, sugar and eggs. Stir thoroughly and add teaspoon Essence of Almond. (over)*"

* Bake in two buttered pans 15 -20 minutes, moderate oven.

And, on the reverse of the card, we have the instructions for the FILLING:


"FILLING MATERIAL
3 cups sugar, 4 eggs (whites only) 1/2 gill boiling water*, lemon juice to taste.
(Treatment.)
Pour water over sugar and lemon juice and boil ten minutes. Pour hot syrup thus made over beaten eggs, beat until cool, Flavor with vanilla, add 2 cups chopped walnuts and 2 cups seeded raisins, make whole or in layers. Cover well with icing."

*NOTE:  A "GILL" equals four fluid ounces or 1/4 of a US pint. (thanks, kitty!)

The index cards don't specify all the baking details, or the ICING recipe (which is described as a "creamy merengue frosting, flavored with vanilla or sherry."  I found a link to a version mentioned by Amy Sedaris in her book "I Like You."  (It's also vetted by Martha Stewart, for whatever that's worth to you.) The modern version:

http://www.marthastewart.com/283937/lady-baltimore-cake

 (Thanks to 'The Old Foodie' blog for the historical info.)

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

CHEESE STRAWS

Another goody from the Bixby family archives!


"Cheese Straws.
1 cupful of dry, highly flavored grated cheese, cayenne pepper to taste and a scant half teaspoon of half butter and lard. rubbed into cup of flour.  Now, have ready a quarter of a cup of ice water - pour half of this into center of flour and begin to stir with a fork - use more water if necessary but use as little as possible.  Flour board a bit.  put mound of paste in centre, roll lightly  from you* quite thin. - bring four corners together and roll to wafer thinness. If to be baked at once a small teaspoon baking powder should be added. but if to be put on ice and baked just before serving, omit powder."



*We think this means "roll away from you" as opposed to the back and forth rolling that may cause the dough to stick to the pin.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

EASTER BABKA



It's Easter.  And it's time to get your Babka on.

This comes from my Aunt Stephanie Marrinan, also made by her mother, Jean Hladchuk, of Ukranian heritage.  As it says on the recipe (below) , this is my cousin Jenny's favorite and she's been meaning to get this recipe for years.  If we're lucky, we'll be getting a bunch of recipes from Aunt Stephanie, who is an excellent cook and at one time had a catering company in Wycoff, New Jersey.

Thanks for Stephanie and Mike for the excellent photo essay (bottom) detailing the step-by-step process of making Babka!

"Babka - Jenny's favorite
4 cups flour
1 package yeast
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 
1/2 cup butter (1 stick) [melted]
1 1/4 cup milk [warmed]
4 egg yolks [beaten]
1 cup raisins
lemon or orange rind [grated]

Put your yeast in a bowl and pour over the warm milk and melted butter, add the sugar, salt, egg yolks, cinnamon and rind.  Whisk in a cup and half flour and raisins...then add the rest of the flour .  Mix with your large rubber scraper. Then put a little flour on your board and dump your dough on top and start to knead.  You will need more flour.  [Place back in bowl, cover and keep in warm place. Wait for dough to rise, about double volume.*] You can make one large round or two loaf pans.  350 degrees for 30-40 minutes."






*Will confirm this step. Appears in photo step ten (below).


Step one:  Gather your ingredients.




Step two:
Warm milk and melt butter.




Step three:
Add half of flour and other dry ingredients. 




Step four:
Add grated rind from one orange or lemon.




Step five:
Add other half of flour and raisins.




Step six:
Mix with rubber spatula.




Step seven:
Flour work surface and dump out dough.




Step eight:
Knead dough on floured surface.







Step nine:
Place dough back in bowl and cover.


Step ten:
Wait for babka to rise.


Step eleven:
Put in baking dish (or split into two) to prepare to bake.





Step twelve:
Bake at 350 for 30-40 minutes.




Done!  Good Times!






"I always loved going to take the food to get blessed at Easter.  My mom, grandma and I would take a big basket of food to the Ukrainian church.  There was some embroidered napkin placed over the top of the food – it was the same napkin every year....There was usually some Farmer’s cheese(I don’t even know what that is!), kielbasa, a shot glass of salt, hard boiled eggs(without the shell) and I think a babka in the basket.  We’d be in some room with rows and rows of tables and lots of ladies with their food.  The priest would come around saying a bunch of stuff in Ukrainian with something that looked like a giant rattle in his hand and shake holy water on everyone’s food." Jennifer Marrinan


Big thanks to Stephanie, Mike and Jenny Marrinan for the wonderfully detailed Easter submission!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

GRANDMA SULLIVAN'S STUFFED CABBAGE






John and Mary Suhar




This recipe comes to me from my mother, Cathleen Marrinan, and her mother, Pauline Sullivan.  My grandma's parents, John and Mary Suhar, were immigrants from Eastern Europe, somewhere around the historically flexible borders of former Czechslovakia and Hungary.  Once in the US, they settled in Pennsylvania where my great grandfather worked as a coal miner.  

Stuffed Cabbage was always a favorite of mine when I was growing up.  Since it's a slow cooking dish, I'd come home from school to the wonderfully tangy aroma in the house.   My mother reports feeling the same way when she would come home to find her mother cooking this dish for dinner.   A few differences:  my mother only used ground beef, while my grandmother used half ground beef and half ground pork.  My mom also took advantage of the availability of instant rice.  Of course, regular rice works perfectly well.  Just make sure the rice isn't fully cooked when you stuff the cabbage leaves.

Grandma Sullivan


"Stuffed Cabbage
1 1/2 lbs. ground beef  [and or ground pork]
1 large onion [white, half chopped, half sliced thin]
1 clove garlic - crushed
1 large head of cabbage
2 8oz cans of Sauerkraut
2 8oz cans of tomato sauce
1 package of Success rice [or regular rice slightly undercooked.]
[Add prepared horseradish, hot sauce, salt and pepper, to taste]

In large pot boil head of cabbage until leaves fall off - pull apart gently.  Drain and cool a bit.
Brown beef with 1/2 onion chopped and garlic.
Boil rice for about 7 minutes instead of 10.
Fill cabbage leaves with mixture of rice and beef.
In large pot - layer stuffed cabbage with tomato sauce, sauerkraut and other half of onion sliced.  Add water to cover cabbage [reduce heat ] and cook for 2 to 3 hours."

From my mother. My notes scribbled in red.


I tried a vegetarian version for my husband, using Ives' Veggie Ground Round, which I pre-cooked in a pan with a few tablespoons of butter to give it some fat content.   It only required one pound of veggie crumbles as opposed to the one and a half pounds of real meat.  The fat in the real meat cooks down and is drained off, reducing it's pre-cooked weight.  Even with the addition of butter, the veggie version didn't have the texture to hold together quite as well.  However, as most of the flavor comes from the tomato and sauerkraut, the taste was still comparable.


My Aunt Stephanie, of Ukranian heritage, makes another variation of Stuffed Cabbage which is equally fantastic.   
To my great-grandparents, this dish would have probably been known as 
Holubky
, whereas Stephanie's family may have called it 
Holubtsi
.   Like the pancake, it seems most cultures have their own interpretation of stuffed cabbage.





Source: Cathleen Marrinan via  Pauline Sullivan [nee Suhar]
Location:  Pennsylvania/New York
Date: 1950s-1960s

Friday, April 22, 2011

Raisin Sauce for Ham

Just in time for Easter... the Bixby family food archive brings you:


"Raisin Sauce for Ham  
1 cup raisins
1/2 cup water
5 cloves
3/4 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon corn starch
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch pepper
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon vinegar*
1/4  teaspoon worcestershire sauce


Cover raisins with water, add cloves and simmer for 10 minutes then add sugar, cornstarch, salt and pepper, which have been mixed together.  Stir constantly until slightly thick and then add remaining ingredients."






*Judging from similar recipes I've found, this should be white vinegar.   Also other recipes appear to use lemon juice and dry mustard in lieu of worcestershire sauce.

Initials in the upper right hand corner read (I think) "D. I. G."  Marcy (mother-in-love) Graham (nee Bixby) believes that this may origniate from the Gregg family on the Avery side.

And, as an added bonus for today's blog readers, here are some pictures of ham that my husband painted.  No extra charge.

"Ham" by Ben Tripp

"Glazed Ham" by Ben Tripp

Not too shabby for a vegetarian!

Thursday, April 21, 2011

LENTIL STEW

I can't remember where I first found this recipe, but I transcribed it into a small notebook that I carried around with me in1995-96.  Just out of college, this meal was a step up from my dinners consisting of mainly of egg noodles and butter.  I recall preparing this for friends in the little galley kitchen of my first Chicago apartment on Hermitage Avenue.   Living alone for the first time and having people over for dinner made me feel like an official grown-up.  Inexpensive and filling...tastes like independence!



"LENTIL STEW
2 Tbs olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
3 cups veggie broth
1 cup dry lentils, rinsed
8 oz red skinned potatoes cut into 1/2" pieces
1 lemon
6oz torn fresh spinach (8 cups)
1/4 teasp cayenne 
1/4 cup fresh mint
salt and pepper.
feta cheese


Heat olive oil over medium. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add veggie broth and lentils; boil. Reduce heat.  Cover and simmer for 10 mins. Add potatoes - cook uncovered until potatoes and lentils are tender, stirring occasionally about 15 mins.  Add cayenne, spinach, mint and generous squeeze of lemon juice. Cover and simmer until spinach is wilted and tender. Salt and pepper to taste.  (While seasoning, account for the salt content the feta cheese will add). Serve hot with feta cheese crumbled on top."

Nowadays, I'd be tempted to throw in a little curry or cumin with the cayenne.

Source: Corinne Marrinan
Date:  1995-96
Location: Chicago. IL

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

CLAMS A LA DAD

By my dad, Kevin Marrinan, as adapted from a recipe by Jackie Gallea.

Jackie Gallea, and his lovely wife Dorothy, have been friends with my parents for over forty years.  In fact, Dorothy was my mother's best friend in high school.  She married Jack, then a policeman in New York, and the couple would have my parents over frequently at their apartment. The Gallea's were/are both excellent cooks and Jackie's stuffed clams was one of his specialties. (With the surname Gallea, being of Italian descent , it makes sense that the stuffed clams resemble other recipes I've since seen for clams oreganata.) It was at one of those parties, somewhere between 1969-1971, that Jackie shared his recipe with my dad.  Dad adapted this to make it a little more dry than Jackie's original.

My immediate family prepares this every Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day without fail. We usually treat this as an appetizer to graze on all afternoon, usually in lieu of lunch.  We used to have thick clam shells that my father would stuff and bake and reuse.  After years of baking them and scrubbing them out afterwards, they started to crumble, so Dad's "stuffed clams" became "clam balls."  All the flavor with less mess!   And the leftovers are fantastic the next day.  (Mmmmm....cold clam balls for breakfast.... )

I've made these successfully for several cocktail parties.  Once, when feeling fancy, I bought fresh clams from Whole Foods rather then purchasing the canned version.  Big mistake. Fresh clams are a huge pain to clean and trim.  By the time I was finished, the pound worth of clams I had purchased was a half-pound, the other half was in the trash.  And I was kinda grossed out by a the slime.  Just use canned!

The recipe is easily adapted for dietary restrictions.  Someone isn't eating bacon?  Divide part of the mixture before making the balls and leave the bacon out.  The bacon provides a good variation in the texture in addition to the smoke flavor.  We tried substituted Morningstar soy bacon for my vegetarian husband, which worked out well.  You could also use smoked paprika to help the flavor along.  If you don't eat shellfish (like my mom) you can leave out the clams.  It's not quite as yummy or moist, but there is plenty of flavor in the rest of the mixture to make little toasty bread-balls of goodness.

As I may have mentioned in previous posts, there was not a large selection of fresh herbs at our local IGA market, so I grew up making these with dry flakes of oregano, parsley and garlic powder.   Now I prefer to use fresh herbs and garlic.

So, without further ado:

Recipe transcribed by my sister, Amy Marrinan Davidson back around 1999.  Notes in brackets are my suggestions since then.

CLAMS A LA DAD

6 slices of bread grated
(Add seasoned bread crumbs if gooey)
1 large onion chopped
2 stalks of celery
2 Tbs butter/margarine [just butter for me, thanks!]
3 thick slices of swiss cheese (chopped)
4 cans minced [and/or] chopped clams
(drain juice) [reserve at least one can of the juice  to add if the mixture is too dry.]
- salt and pepper
- oregano (dry) [or some fresh, too]
- parsley (dry) [fresh, too, please!]
- paprika
- garlic powder
- parmesan cheese [grated]
- olive oil [2 tablespoons should do it]
- [cooked] bacon (optional)
- jalepenos (optional)
[- fresh garlic (optional)]
[wedges of fresh lemon]

1. Saute onion and celery in olive oil until transparent - remove from frying pan. [cool in large mixing bowl]
2. In the same pan, melt butter then saute bread crumbs.
3. Combine all ingredients and season [I add the clams last, so I can safely keep tasting the bread-vegetable-herb mixture as I go along.  If the texture is too dry, add more clam juice, or maybe a little olive oil.  If the texture is too dry, add more breadcrumbs.]
4. Make into balls [ approximately 1 and a half inch in diameter, placed on oiled cookie sheet] - sprinkle with paprika.
5. Bake at 350  25-30 minutes or until crispy and browned.
6. Serve with fresh lemon.

Source:  Kevin Marrinan via Jackie Gallea
Date: 1969-1971
Location: New York, NY

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Loren and Quincy's Test Kitchen: The Sponge Cake-Off!

 Qunicy & Loren (below)
Loren Tripp reporting from her Test Kitchen in Pasadena:


"Chef Quincy and I made these last night in our Test Kitchen.  We weren’t sure what pans to use, so we used identical 9” dark insulated round cake pans.  Q made Mrs. Batch, I made True.  We brought the eggs and butter up to room temperature.  We used unbleached flour (Not organic, though.) 


We used 3 medium eggs and about a tablespoon of lemon juice for Mrs Batch. The method was an odd process; you get a thick paste of batter, then you thin it with the hot water.  I was afraid Quincy would end up with scrambled egg strands, but that didn’t happen. The batter almost overflowed the top of our pan, perhaps a foreshadowing of things to come! 


True Sponge was a bit more of an elaborate process: beating the egg whites and sifting the bejeebers out of the flour and folding the dry into the wet.  The batter filled the pan about 1/2 full.  
We put both in the oven at 350. We cleaned up the kitchen to the tune of Kool & the Gang. I took True Sponge out of the oven after 40 minutes, as it looked done and slightly browned on top.  Mrs. Batch was struggling under her own mass in there; the edges looked lovely but the center was very liquid.  After 15 more minutes, I removed Mrs. Batch from the oven (Ben, there’s the opener for your next novel...)  and she had collapsed!  The edges looked nice, but the center had fallen; perhaps she is a two pan cake!  


(Photo Right:  Top Cake-Mrs. Batch, Bottom Cake-True Sponge)

The verdict:  First, I don’t have a standard Sponge Cake to compare these to, but I’m guessing it’s a slightly rubbery, holey version of a pound cake that we’re after.  True Sponge is dense with a moist crumble and delicate lemon flavor that is slightly overpowered by sugar. Mrs. Batch’s Sponge Cake fell, but from what we can tell, it’s a more rubbery, holey texture with a strong lemon flavor and not quite as sweet.  is a lovely crunchy crust over the fallen part, which is unintentional, but a nice nibble anyway.  Both are dense and very moist and have a cheery, bright lemon yellow color.  

I think we’ll try Mrs. Batch’s again, with one larger pan and/or 2 8” rounds.  Ada’s True Sponge Cake WINS, if only by default!"